Island Time

    It's Island Time Mon!  This is a phrase you’ll hear a lot in the Bahamas.  I guess when you get to any of the islands from the Bahamas down through the Caribbean you’ll hear it a lot.  So what does it mean?  When we first got to the Bahamas last year it generally meant to chill out or slow down.  Nothing happens at break neck speed or on a timely manner here on the outer islands.  But as we spend more time in the Bahamas, it has grown to mean a lot of things and we understand it and love it..

     Take for example, some businesses close for lunch.  So what’s the big deal about that?  Some close for 2 hours over lunch.  And what if you try to hail a local establishment on the VHF radio.  Don’t try too early in the morning or too late in the afternoon.  Or, when you get to the local business you may have to wait for the owner to show up from who knows where.  Speaking of communication, that VHF radio on your boat, take care of it.  It’s one of the main sources of communications.  Telephone and internet, although improving, leave a lot to be desired especially when you think about those faster than the speed of light internet connections you left behind.     What if you're working on a project or emergency repairs on your boat, well good luck with that.  If the material or spares are not already in your boat's inventory, the materials and parts will probably have to be special ordered 95% of the time, and they’ll be arriving on the mail boat soon.  Oh yea, the mail boat.  It runs on “schedule” 3 weeks out of the month.  The Bahamian government cut back on fuel subsidies, and the mail boats dropped one delivery date each month.  And if there’s a blow coming through, it’ll  delay the mail boat by a day or two, or three…..  What about your 401k or your portfolio?  Better take care of that before you leave civilization.  Having some medical issues?  If the adjacent island to your anchorage has a clinic, the nurse at the clinic, if she’s not on her 2 hour lunch break,  can fix you up most of the time.  But if it requires a doctor or a dentist, crank up those diesel engines on your boat and start plotting a course to one of the larger communities.  Do you enjoy reading the newspaper with a cup of joe?  No paper boys down here, and bring your own coffee.  Starbucks hasn’t discovered the Bahamas!  So you think you’ll catch that ball game tonight?  Unless you have satellite television on your boat, you’ll have to go to one of the local restaurants or watering holes on the larger out islands for the game if the establishment is open for happy hour or stays open that late.  Speaking of watching that game on the boat if your so fortunate, I’m sure you’ll want to drink a cold brewski.  You’ll probably need to bring a couple of cases, make that many cases for on the boat.  And if you get the munchies, better bring a couple bags of your favorite chips and salsa.  No mini-market to run to at 9 pm.  Same with grocery shopping.  Plan ahead and take advantage of every opportunity to grab that produce on Wednesday for Saturday night’s salad. 

     Have you figured out what island time is?  Island time is a way of life.  And the people of the islands are so very happy because they don’t have all the stress and worries that the rest of the civilized world has thrust upon itself.   The only thing that is reliable and dependable to the Bahamians is the sun, that it rises and sets every day.  And the most important thing to the Bahamians is family.   So, the next time someone says to you that you’re on Island Time, take a swig of your Kalik, look them square in the eye and proudly say “Yeah Mon…… Island Time!”.

Cold Kaliks

     Once again we are back at Black Point Settlement.  Not at Plain Bay, our foavorite anchorage, which is just around the point to the south of Black Point and only a 30 minute ride from Black Point to Plain Bay.  Yesterday morning, we found our anchorage at Pipe Cay getting a little lumpy from a mild southerly breeze, and being too far north and too early to continue onto Nassau we decided to go south.  Remember, we're on the jello plan.  Black Point, just 15 miles to the south was an ideal choice - fresh produce and wifi.  We pulled anchor at 10am and at 1pm the anchor splashed once again in Black Point Harbor.  As we had followed the mail boat into the harbour, the government dock was very busy including the adjacent dinghy dock.  So we waited for the mail boat to leave and made our run into Adderly's grocery store where we found lettuce, romaine, green peppers, tomatoes, eggs, butter and flour.

      After we returned to the boat, I left the engine on the dinghy idle, and it stalled.  Thankfully, the dinghy was tied up to the mothership for I tried numerous times to pull start the motor, no turn of the key for electric start on this model, but was unable to get the motor to start.  So I decided to wait until the next day when the waters were a little more calm in the harbour to diagnose the outboard.  Shortly after my encounter with the outboard, Sharon said she could drink a Kalik (Bahamian Beer).  I, on the other hand, went to the pilothouse to do some internet work.  After about an hour, the seed planted by Sharon about a Kalik started to grow as the pilothouse was like a greenhouse, very warm.  Back to the dinghy and diagnosing the motor.  I had determined that because the fuel tank was low and we had towed the dinghy to Black point, we had lost the fuel siphon and a slug of air got into the fuel line.  So, after about 20 pulls on the motor and some other tricks from up my sleeve, I got the outboard running.  Quickly, Sharon threw on a pair of shorts and a T-shirt over her bathing suit and I, still smelling like gasoline, made our way to Scorpios bar for happy hour.  Once there, we were quickly reunited with Doug and Jean of the Sand Castle and shortly thereafter their neighbors, Frank and Peg.  A grand time was had by all. Yes, we got our cold Kaliks!

  

We're Hooked

     So much for the hidey hole for the last blow that came through the Exumas!  We anchored in an anchorage we used last year, between the Majors, just for the latest cold front to pass through.  The anchorage, it's just north of Staniel Cay between Big Major Spot and Little Major Spot.  Both Spots are Cays (islands).  We arrived on Thursday and anchored just south of  between the Majors.  Then on Friday, we moved up to between the Majors.  The blow never developed like the previous one. Was King Neptune watching over us?  The anchorage, between the Majors,  tormented us with surge on the beam, which causes the boat to get a little rolly from side to side as the seas surged in through Big Rock Cut.  Tuesday morning, bright and early, and without prompting or hesitation, we departed at 6:45a.m. for an anchorage recommended by our very good friend, Rick on M/V Broulee.

      Our arrival at Pipe Cay was late in the morning but allowed us time to go explore the old Decca Navigation Station.  Not much to see but a beautiful harbor protected from all but the NW.  We need to explore the harbor some more to see if we can use it in a pinch as a hidey hole.  It'll take some creative anchoring and some long lines, but I think we're up to tthe challenge.

      Wednesday, was an absolutely perfect day for snorkeling, read magical.  The winds were almost gone.  The sky was cloudless, and we stumbled on the best snorkeling we have done so far.  Our timing was impeccable.  We left Big Run just before slack tide.  We did some preliminary snorkeling at the Decca Harbour but quickly left for a small unnamed cay to the west of the anchorage where the snorkeling left us speechless.  Sorry, no pictures.  Note - If someone would like to donate an underwater camera......I guess I'll have better luck asking Santa Claus for one.  Our good fortune did not stop with our first location.  We then dinghy'd over to the SW corner of Pipe Cay and discovered yet another bonanza of tropical fish, coral and sea fans.  Next stop when we get back to civilization,  Nassau, we'll get more snorkeling gear.  We're hooked.

Pipe Cay Anchorage

Pipe Cay Sunset

Hidey Hole

     Yesterday afternoon, after a few hours of beach combing, Sharon and I returned to the boat and within a matter of minutes decided it was time to move on.  We were at Plain Bay, our favorite Bahamian anchorage for the second time this season.  When you add the time from our first visit with the time of this last visit it totals 45 days.  Guess we do like that anchorage.  One of the things that has prompted us to move north is the next cold front swinging in from Florida.  If you read our last blog entry, Hell's Playbook, you'll understand part of our motivation to move onto, hopefully, a better protected anchorage.  Also, our trek north will be slow but with a purpose.  We are hoping to plan our arrival in Nassau with the expiration of our cruising permit.  While in Nassau we hope to get at least a 60 day extension.  Then if the weather cooperates, we will head north to the Abacos and hopefully connect with our buddy boat from last year, Broulee, where a new adventure will start in the Northern Bahamas.  But for right now, we have to concern ourselves with this next cold front and find a hidey hole.

Hell's Playbook

      Quite often you’ll hear us speaking about the weather and how moving the boat from one location to another is directly related to the weather.  The weather also plays a major factor while at anchor.  Especially if you want a good night’s sleep.  Every once in a while in the Bahamas a “cold front” will move in from Florida slicing its way across the islands.  Saturday was no different.

       Earlier in the week we started hearing reports of a cold front approaching and how the winds would clock around.  When the weather gurus speak of winds clocking around, as in this case, the winds will be from the NE then move to an E or SE direction.  The winds may continue to clock around to the S and to the SW, then onto the W and NW.  So, winds clocking around, no big deal until you start talking wind speed.  Now you have every cruiser’s attention.  For this particular cold front, the days leading up to the front were supposed to be calm.  Take for example Thursday’s forecast was  for E 5-7 knots building to 7-10 knots and Friday’s forecast was E 6-11 knots.  The weather report on Thursday also included Saturdays forecast of SW 8-10 knots clocking WNW 10-14 knots and then in the evening NNW 9-13 knots. Thursday lived up to its predictions.  On Friday, the winds also came as predicted. The Saturday forecast as given on Friday was SW 10-14 knots clocking WNW 9-12 and continuing to clock around NNW at 10-14 knots.   Yes, I know, a lot of numbers being thrown at you all at once.  Believe me, the forecast for Saturday never changed dramatically, we keep a log of the weather (wind & direction)  predictions.

        Now, here is what happened as I think of how I lived through it.  The forecast didn’t change but mother nature changed her mind, and she was very angry.  It all started around 3am Saturday morning with the boat hobby horsing (pitching – bow rising up and down) as the winds were blowing out of the SW at 15 knots.  15 knots isn’t bad except for the fetch.  The distance from the nearest land mass to our west, Andros (Bahamas) was too far away to offer any wind break, about 50 miles too far away.  This allowed the wind to really whip up the waves, as in 1-3 feet with 2-4 footers added in for good measure.  As the day dragged on the winds picked even more.  Now we are talking 15-20 knots  and gusting much more.  Wait, that’s not what the weather reports were predicting.  The actually weather conditions were twice as bad as forecast.  Our buddy boat, Short Walk,  in the anchorage  with us, gave us a wind conditions report late Saturday afternoon – 21 knots gusting to 27 knots.  Now we are dealing with waves in the anchorage of 2-4 feet with 3-5 footers to kick your ass!   

        Our day consisted of lying down in berths for most of the day.  It was too far dangerous to move about the boat.  At times, from the master suite, in the bow of the boat, I could look out to the stern and see the dinghy above the transom because the bow of Big Run was rising that far out of the water, lowering the stern.  The dinghy was on the crest of a different wave above the transom, all simultaneously.   The top of our transom is 4 feet plus above the waterline.  Let’s not forget the waves that attacked from the sides causing the boat to violently roll from side to side. It’s called a confused sea!  In a nutshell, the boat was pitching up and down and rolling from side to side at the same time.  When I did venture up to the pilothouse, I could see that we were very close to burying the bow’s pulpit in the waves as the boat pitched.  On a normal day the pulpit is 8 feet above the water.  

      Later in the evening as the winds clocked to the NW and we were protected by land mass, the boat turned into the wind with a NW heading.  And what about the waves rolling in from the west because of the westerly winds that day?  Yes, they were still rolling in from the west that evening as the  boat pointed north, and Big Run rolled side to side through the night.  Sometimes the rolls were  very abrupt, 30 degrees roll from one side to 30 degree roll to the other side. That’s a 60 degree arc! 

      The ordeal lasted about 24 hours.  This was worse than any crossing we have ever done, and the worse night on the hook we have ever had.  We survived this ordeal only because we are dedicated to this lifestyle of being full time cruisers.

      This was not a angry mother nature, this was a page from hell’s playbook.

This is S/V Short Walk on the hook being tossed during the blow.

Farmers Cay 5Fs

Photo essay of Farmers Cay 5Fs (Farmers Cay, February, First Friday, Festival)

The competition arrives from Barraterre

Clean start

Warrior chasing Smashies

Hermit crab racing at Ocean Cabin

Friday night open jam session at Farmers Cay Yacht Club

Saturday afternoon practice - on the edge

Saturday afternoon at the "airport bar"

Sippy Cup

     This year's 5Fs festival was a different festival (read party) than last year.  The new bar at the airport may have contributed to the shift in the party.  The race course is on the west side of the island next to the airport and the new bar. It appeared most of the cruisers came to Farmers Cay to watch the Class C Sloop races, or, to visit the new bar.    The "airport" bar has a great location, right on the beach, and they have built a large deck out onto the beach.  The proprietor, Tyrone, has  probably spent some time in the states for he speaks very good English.  The bar's interior is very nice by Bahamian standards.  When we arrived on the Monday before the festival, the crews were working 10-12 hours a day trying to finish the bar.  Friday morning, the day of the festival, some of the finishing touches were still being applied to the structure.  And when it came time to party, the crew put their tools away.  There is still much work to be done.  However, the place looks great. This is what the Exumas needed, a nice beach bar that you can drive your dinghy right up to.  No more climbing down into your dinghy from a dock towering 8 feet above the water and to make it more fun, try doing it in the dark.  This new bar has all the features I've been searching for in the Exumas.
     On Friday morning, Sharon and I took our dinghy over to the airport and beached the dinghy near the bar.  We decided to go into the village on the east side to see what activities were going on and who (cruisers) was in town.  After an hour or so, we made our way back to the airport to catch the 11 o'clock races at 12 o'clock.  Remember we're on island time!  It was 12:30 and still no races.  I decided to get a Kalik (beer) at the new airport bar.  That's when my dream tuned into a nightmare, the bar from hell.  I made my way to the bar, but before you can order a beer, you must by tickets from the cashier.  Okay where's the cashier? Finally, I get to the cashier to buy three 1 dollar tickets - the price of one beer.  But wait, we have more delays, the cashier then spends the time to write on the back of the tickets that the tickets are for 1 bottle of beer and the beer brand - what!  All I want is a beer, what's with all the delays.  Finally, I get to the bar and ordered a Kalik, and here's the final knockout punch, they bust the cap on the bottle and pour your beer into a freaking plastic cup for your protection!  Next, they'll want to put my beer in a spill proof sippy cup!